Roger Wilco Jr wrote:I moved the USB plugs around a bit and then played for an hour. Right when I was thinking the problem is solved, I had two quick disconnect/connect cycles. It seems that it's been happening mostly right after a jump, so maybe the system is using extra resources. One thing's for sure, this has only happened since the Windows 10 Anniversary update. Now I guess I'll try reinstalling the USB drivers, and maybe check the bios settings first. I think my MB came with a disc.
Hrdina wrote:I have been having a similar problem with USB external USB. I have an internal SSD as my main drive, but keep all my music and photos on the external drive.
If I leave the system alone for a while and come back, sometimes it seems to take a long time for the music player to start back up again. Looking for the files in windows explorer can also block for a while (although I seem to be able to traverse folders OK).
Hrdina wrote:This all started happening after a big Windows 10 update last week (which I assume was the Anniversary update).
I found the "USB Root Hub" thing yesterday and cleared that check box. So far today the external HDD seems OK but we'll see how long that lasts...]
Hrdina wrote:ALSO, the first time I powered up my box after that update, the system got to the Windows login screen, but my keyboard would not respond so I could not log in.
Hrdina wrote:I powered down (by holding the power button) then powered back up,
Hrdina wrote:and the damned thing hung at BIOS. The MB seemed to indicate a "no boot device" error. I finally got it to boot by shutting down the box, then cutting all power to the PS. Next time I turned it on, I was relieved that it booted.
Hrdina wrote:I have not shut down the box since then.
RD-83 wrote:...and my ethernet adapter drops the connection about every 30-40 minutes just long enough for ED to time out.
thebs wrote:There can be three (3) different reasons for this.
1) Inadequate current, especially for 2.5" drives, and definitely for NAND SSD (as many use more power than platters due to RAM). I assume you're platter, but sometimes the platters use >1A, and totally blow past what the port can provide.
2) Windows refuses to cache external USB devices, which means FAT and directory entries are read and and every time. This can reduce performance 100-fold, easily.
3) The aforementioned Windows USB power management, including powering down the drive. Sometimes it's the device itself, in its own firmware, that powers down itself, after X minutes of inactivity, parking the heads for safety.
thebs wrote:Hrdina wrote:This all started happening after a big Windows 10 update last week (which I assume was the Anniversary update).
I found the "USB Root Hub" thing yesterday and cleared that check box. So far today the external HDD seems OK but we'll see how long that lasts...]
It's the main thing that is getting a lot of people. It got my wife as well.
Also, here are a few other options and considerations.
- http://www.drivethelife.com/windows-10/ ... issue.html
thebs wrote:Hrdina wrote:ALSO, the first time I powered up my box after that update, the system got to the Windows login screen, but my keyboard would not respond so I could not log in.
Uplug the USB cable and re-plug it in. This is a long-standing and known issue with Windows operating systems and Windows only. NT PnP does some really stupid re-initialization during boot and ntlogin screen, and it is wholly unnecessary.
thebs wrote:Hrdina wrote:I powered down (by holding the power button) then powered back up,
Never do this. Windows NTFS volumes often take great issue with such. It's one reason I remove the header from the 'reset' button too.
Just toggle the power button and let the system shut down normally. If that doesn't work, again, unplug the USB keyboard and re-plug it in.
thebs wrote:Hrdina wrote:and the damned thing hung at BIOS. The MB seemed to indicate a "no boot device" error. I finally got it to boot by shutting down the box, then cutting all power to the PS. Next time I turned it on, I was relieved that it booted.
If you 'hard cut-off power', give it at least 10 seconds, if not 30 seconds, to remove any capacitance and transients from the microelectronics and power supply. Otherwise you can have all sorts of hardware register and system state that will prevent the Power On Self Test (POST) from completing, and rightly so, because it's got garbage.
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