doo daa loo

[Roger Wilco Jr]

I moved the USB plugs around a bit and then played for an hour. Right when I was thinking the problem is solved, I had two quick disconnect/connect cycles. It seems that it's been happening mostly right after a jump, so maybe the system is using extra resources. One thing's for sure, this has only happened since the Windows 10 Anniversary update. Now I guess I'll try reinstalling the USB drivers, and maybe check the bios settings first. I think my MB came with a disc.

[thebs]

I moved the USB plugs around a bit and then played for an hour. Right when I was thinking the problem is solved, I had two quick disconnect/connect cycles. It seems that it's been happening mostly right after a jump, so maybe the system is using extra resources. One thing's for sure, this has only happened since the Windows 10 Anniversary update. Now I guess I'll try reinstalling the USB drivers, and maybe check the bios settings first. I think my MB came with a disc.

Looks like Windows Power Plan may be the culprit:
- http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-27 ... ndows.html

So I wasn't far in my initial guess. It seems you might have to pull up the 'Advanced' tab and look at what your power management is doing in Windows to your USB ports.

EDIT: Looks like it's also a setting in Device Manager itself ...
- https://www.drivereasy.com/knowledge/fi ... dont-work/

[Roger Wilco Jr]

Last night I updated everything I could from the Gigabyte website. After rebooting, I'd get the device disconnect and device connect sounds at startup as well as in the game.

I had high hopes for the device manager power management fix. While I was at it, I told it not to turn off my throttle. After rebooting, I was pleased to not hear the disconnect/connect sounds. But then within a few minutes my throttle locked up while landing and the station controller yelled at me for obstructing the corridor.

Oh well, I guess I'll try some more fixes later.

For now, I have hopes that the device manager power management fix will work on my laptop that started randomly disconnecting the wifi. If it doesn't disconnect over the weekend, I'll know at least that problem is finally fixed.

I'm also seriously considering ripping Windows 10 off of my computer and reinstalling Windows 7.

[Hrdina]

I have been having a similar problem with USB external USB. I have an internal SSD as my main drive, but keep all my music and photos on the external drive.

If I leave the system alone for a while and come back, sometimes it seems to take a long time for the music player to start back up again. Looking for the files in windows explorer can also block for a while (although I seem to be able to traverse folders OK).

This all started happening after a big Windows 10 update last week (which I assume was the Anniversary update).

I found the "USB Root Hub" thing yesterday and cleared that check box. So far today the external HDD seems OK but we'll see how long that lasts...

ALSO, the first time I powered up my box after that update, the system got to the Windows login screen, but my keyboard would not respond so I could not log in. I powered down (by holding the power button) then powered back up, and the damned thing hung at BIOS. The MB seemed to indicate a "no boot device" error. I finally got it to boot by shutting down the box, then cutting all power to the PS. Next time I turned it on, I was relieved that it booted.

I have not shut down the box since then.

[Roger Wilco Jr]

I ordered this as I'm out of USB ports anyway and I'll need more for Touch in a couple of months. Hopefully this may solve my problem as well.

[thebs]

I have been having a similar problem with USB external USB. I have an internal SSD as my main drive, but keep all my music and photos on the external drive.
If I leave the system alone for a while and come back, sometimes it seems to take a long time for the music player to start back up again. Looking for the files in windows explorer can also block for a while (although I seem to be able to traverse folders OK).

There can be three (3) different reasons for this.

1) Inadequate current, especially for 2.5" drives, and definitely for NAND SSD (as many use more power than platters due to RAM). I assume you're platter, but sometimes the platters use >1A, and totally blow past what the port can provide.

2) Windows refuses to cache external USB devices, which means FAT and directory entries are read and and every time. This can reduce performance 100-fold, easily.

3) The aforementioned Windows USB power management, including powering down the drive. Sometimes it's the device itself, in its own firmware, that powers down itself, after X minutes of inactivity, parking the heads for safety.

This all started happening after a big Windows 10 update last week (which I assume was the Anniversary update).
I found the "USB Root Hub" thing yesterday and cleared that check box. So far today the external HDD seems OK but we'll see how long that lasts...]

It's the main thing that is getting a lot of people. It got my wife as well.

Also, here are a few other options and considerations.
- http://www.drivethelife.com/windows-10/ ... issue.html

ALSO, the first time I powered up my box after that update, the system got to the Windows login screen, but my keyboard would not respond so I could not log in.

Uplug the USB cable and re-plug it in. This is a long-standing and known issue with Windows operating systems and Windows only. NT PnP does some really stupid re-initialization during boot and ntlogin screen, and it is wholly unnecessary.

I have this happen to me under Windows 7 but nothing of the sort with Linux on the exact same systems. It's a very stupid, very well known issue that Microsoft refuses to fix, because it means re-factoring the entire PnP in NT6+/Vista on-ward.

I powered down (by holding the power button) then powered back up,

Never do this. Windows NTFS volumes often take great issue with such. It's one reason I remove the header from the 'reset' button too.

Just toggle the power button and let the system shut down normally. If that doesn't work, again, unplug the USB keyboard and re-plug it in.

and the damned thing hung at BIOS. The MB seemed to indicate a "no boot device" error. I finally got it to boot by shutting down the box, then cutting all power to the PS. Next time I turned it on, I was relieved that it booted.

If you 'hard cut-off power', give it at least 10 seconds, if not 30 seconds, to remove any capacitance and transients from the microelectronics and power supply. Otherwise you can have all sorts of hardware register and system state that will prevent the Power On Self Test (POST) from completing, and rightly so, because it's got garbage.

I have not shut down the box since then.

I only turn on my Windows game system when I game, and shut it off when done. I've cycled power thousands of times now over the past 2-3 years.

Of course, I also dd the C: drive, which is on NAND, to the D: drive, which is RAID-5, so I can restore it from Linux any time Windows self-toasts itself. I had to do that once a little over a year ago.

But Windows 10 Anniversary Update doesn't like this configuration, split C: and D: devices, because Microsoft doesn't test worth a crap or live in the real world. For now I remain on Windows 7 and will likely remain on it until 2020.

[Relix Typhon]

...and my ethernet adapter drops the connection about every 30-40 minutes just long enough for ED to time out.

For anyone having the same problem, I think I found the issue. Its avast antivirus. I've disabled it the past two nights and had no connection problems.
I'll sort it when I'm not playing every second of my free time playing ED

[Hrdina]

TheBS, thanks for taking the time to respond.

There can be three (3) different reasons for this.

1) Inadequate current, especially for 2.5" drives, and definitely for NAND SSD (as many use more power than platters due to RAM). I assume you're platter, but sometimes the platters use >1A, and totally blow past what the port can provide.

2) Windows refuses to cache external USB devices, which means FAT and directory entries are read and and every time. This can reduce performance 100-fold, easily.

3) The aforementioned Windows USB power management, including powering down the drive. Sometimes it's the device itself, in its own firmware, that powers down itself, after X minutes of inactivity, parking the heads for safety.

The external USB drive has its own power connection, so it's not feeding just from the USB.

If #2 is not unique to the updated Windows 10, I would probably classify that one as "possibly but not particularly likely".

Likewise for #3, I don't think it's the device itself since if that were the case, it would have been doing this when I was running original Windows 10, and (sadly) OEM 8.1 before that. I never saw this behavior before the update.

This all started happening after a big Windows 10 update last week (which I assume was the Anniversary update).
I found the "USB Root Hub" thing yesterday and cleared that check box. So far today the external HDD seems OK but we'll see how long that lasts...]

It's the main thing that is getting a lot of people. It got my wife as well.

Also, here are a few other options and considerations.
- http://www.drivethelife.com/windows-10/ ... issue.html

That was one of the (many) sites I encountered when trying to fix this issue. I thought about using Driver Talent, but held off since my reboot at least got the system back online.

ALSO, the first time I powered up my box after that update, the system got to the Windows login screen, but my keyboard would not respond so I could not log in.

Uplug the USB cable and re-plug it in. This is a long-standing and known issue with Windows operating systems and Windows only. NT PnP does some really stupid re-initialization during boot and ntlogin screen, and it is wholly unnecessary.

That's what Tech Support told me, too (after the fact, though).

I powered down (by holding the power button) then powered back up,

Never do this. Windows NTFS volumes often take great issue with such. It's one reason I remove the header from the 'reset' button too.

Just toggle the power button and let the system shut down normally. If that doesn't work, again, unplug the USB keyboard and re-plug it in.

Toggling didn't work, and I'll remember the USB next time. When this first happened, though, what little diagnosing I could do had implicated the SATA SSD rather than the external USB, so doing anything with USB connectors did not occur to me.

and the damned thing hung at BIOS. The MB seemed to indicate a "no boot device" error. I finally got it to boot by shutting down the box, then cutting all power to the PS. Next time I turned it on, I was relieved that it booted.

If you 'hard cut-off power', give it at least 10 seconds, if not 30 seconds, to remove any capacitance and transients from the microelectronics and power supply. Otherwise you can have all sorts of hardware register and system state that will prevent the Power On Self Test (POST) from completing, and rightly so, because it's got garbage.

I shut the system down and then disconnected power to the PS and left for 30 minutes or so. That seemed to be the key.

In any event, my external HDD is very old (it has a file from 2007 on it). When I got my new machine in January 2014, it had only the internal SSD. I appropriated the external HDD from my wife, who wasn't really using it, because I had a bunch of music and photo files that I did not want to put on the SSD. Recently I had been looking into getting a new internal HDD so that I can retire the external drive, and this might help make up my mind.

[Roger Wilco Jr]

I really thought the problem went away after I disconnected the power supply overnight. I played about 1.5 hours in the morning w/o any disconnects. Then in a second session, and others since, the disconnect problem is back. Normally it disconnects and connects so fast that it only plays the one sound, but other times it will disconnect for nearly up to a minute, which is fun when your drifting in an asteroid field.

And I have other problems since the Windows 10 Anniversary update. Now if I quit to desktop and go watch TV or something, the monitor will eventually go to sleep, but now it wakes up every 30 seconds, sees no signal, and goes back to sleep, again and again. The whole time the drive LED has near constant activity (ssd). Neither of those happened before. I don't think my new USB ports will solve these problems.

I'm reaching for the Windows 7 disc.

[Roger Wilco Jr]

Well, back to my CH Pro Throttle woes.

CH says there is a conflict between their CH Control Manager software and Windows 10 Anniversary Edition. They also say the problem is with Windows and Microsoft will need to fix it. In the meantime, they recommend removing their software, which is only optional and not required because all their devices are plug & play, and use the Windows calibration software. They say I'm not the only one who is having the problem, but I have no idea why others are not.

So I followed their suggestion and the throttle is no longer disconnecting.

But now I'm having a different problem. I'm getting crap range out of the thrusters on the mini stick, and I can't quite reach full speed with the throttle. I bound the throttle and thrusters to the analog axes and also to digital buttons. These are the maximum speeds I could achieve (analog/digital) in an A-rated Cobra Mark IV:

Forward 208/215
Reverse 129/129
Left 108/172
Right 93/172
Up 93/172
Down 93/172

The throttle is not too bad, but I think I may need to reassign the thrusters to a hat switch, but that could cause problems landing on high-g planets. I'll have to reassign the mini stick to something else (assuming I can).

Anyway, I guess I'm wondering if anyone else is getting similar results, or totally different results, using the Microsoft calibration software? And more importantly, do you know how I can get full range?