CH Pro Throttle Warning

[TorTorden]

Just reacted a bit since from the title you would almost think the throttle jumped off the desk and killed your pets or something.

Where it is yet another case of this fecking update from Microsoft breaking usb drivers.

[CMDR Abil Midena]

How did you get the 7/8 cal to stick? Did you use win cal or ch software cal? I could never get ED to see it is why I ask.

I don't know - hit apply? Badum-Tishhh!
I'm using the CH Control Manager (I thought win cal wen't away with Windows 7). Anyway, I just hold the mini stick at full deflection, and then back off a bit until I see the graphics change. Then I check that I can get full speed in game. I have noticed that if I back off too little with the throttle setting, I may still not reach full speed.

Actually, some stuff you can still cal in win 10. You go to devices/printers, rt click on one of the controllers, then choose 'game controllers'. Pick the device from the list, then choose properties. For stuff like ch throttle/stick, it just says 'do it with the ch software jerk', but for other stuff, you can calibrate it from there. My old 360 wheel I use for Forza 6 is cal this way.

I'll have to re-re-try to cal the ch throttle throw to 7/8 again (or lower I guess). The issue for me is inside the throttle, there is a rubber bumper at the top end of the throw. If you don't mash the throttle at the top end, ED won't see the max throttle request (because the pot in the throttle isn't seeing max depending if you're smooshing the bumper hard enough). You can see that in supercruise where the throttle setting will bounce back and forth off the max setting really fast, and it takes way longer to increase sc speed. Annoying as hell, especially when exploring.

[thebs]

Actually, some stuff you can still cal in win 10.

That's because Windows 10, despite the artificial version bump, is still NT 6.4 (not actually NT 10).

You go to devices/printers, rt click on one of the controllers, then choose 'game controllers'. Pick the device from the list, then choose properties. For stuff like ch throttle/stick, it just says 'do it with the ch software jerk', but for other stuff, you can calibrate it from there. My old 360 wheel I use for Forza 6 is cal this way.

This is the only way I calibrate anything in Windows. I'll load registry hacks to enable additional axes as well, like for the Saitek X-55/X-56. I then copy the game's configuration files, along with the registry settings, between systems, so it's cake to replicate. Heck, going from the X-55 to X-56, I only had to do a find/replace in the configuration files itself.

I refuse to use the vendor's software, other than the drivers. It's bad enough that the OS will screw around with the drivers and settings, but adding the vendors software atop of it -- let alone if you have more than 1 vendor software per type (e.g., 2+ input software, 2+ printer software, 2+ imaging/camera/scanner software, etc...) -- they love to fight each other in Windows.

That's why I only use the base Windows drivers and included software, with a few exceptions for "open standards" system. E.g., for printing, I load the CUPS-Ghostscript system (now owned by Apple). For scanning, I load SANE (and most enterprises do the same). Etc... No crappy vendor printer drivers, no TWAIN/imaging hell, etc... Windows lacks good subsystems, and vendor software only makes it worse, especially when you have 2+ vendors 'fighting for control.'